Historically, Portland was a tiny limestone island in the English Channel, just off present-day Weymouth. Now not quite an island, but still the southernmost part of Dorset. Connected to Weymouth by the A354 highway, the city shares with it a wonderful harbor, one of the best in the country and the largest in the world in general. Not only that, but it is also located right in the middle of the incomparable Jurassic Coast, part of the World Heritage of Humanity. There are cities with this name in the USA and in Australia, but this one, the British Portland, was the first, and the famous "pirate lyric" language is about it.
The wave that made Portland harbor one of the largest in the world began to be built in 1849. Construction lasted 23 years and cost the lives of 22 people.
Today, the city on an island only 6 km long (and half as wide) is connected to the mainland by an isthmus and a bridge with the federal highway. In addition to the great importance that Portland had and has for the country as a man-made port, it has provided Great Britain with other resources for centuries. In particular, the stone is famous throughout Europe, which was used as a material for beautiful monumental buildings: St. Paul's Cathedral in London and the building of the New York headquarters of the United Nations were built from it. Most of the tombstones in World War II soldiers' cemeteries in Great Britain, France and Belgium were made from local limestone. And this same stone was used by Sir Christopher Wren to rebuild London from the ruins after the fire of 1666.
The origin of the term "portland cement" is also from here.
A LITTLE HISTORY
Many evidences have been found that the local places were inhabited by the Romans. The Portland coast is the site of the first recorded Viking landing in the British Isles. Later, the coast of Portland was desired by the Saxons and Normans: the former chose this place to build a church at Church Opp, the latter completed the church itself (St. Andrew's) and Rufus Castle. The 17th century became the golden era of piracy in the northern seas: ships loaded with valuables from the colonies constantly followed the Spanish trade route. But pirate ships also had to be based somewhere, and Portland was the best fit for that.
Ironically, Portland later developed as a naval base. Starting from the second half of the 19th century, its harbor was significantly modernized and fortified, Her Majesty's fleet was based here, and after two wars - NATO courts. There are no warships in Portland harbor today.
The great novelist Thomas Hardy called Portland "the island of slingers" because of the inhospitable locals who threw stones to drive away strangers.
HOW TO GET
The nearest airport is in Bournemouth. It is easy to get from London to Weymouth by bus or train (about 3 hours), and from Weymouth to Portland there are several buses every hour (travel time - about 35 minutes). In addition, the Portland Cruise Port accepts ships, including from continental Europe.
ENTERTAINMENT AND SIGHTS
In Portland, by definition, there cannot be particularly many historical monuments and architectural curiosities. The most attractive part of it for many is the sailing academy, an Olympic-level facility. However, the local white stone church of St. George, whose builders were inspired by St. Paul's Cathedral in London, is definitely worth a visit. It was built in the 18th century and is considered one of the most beautiful in Dorset. In addition, in Portland (more precisely, in the village of Fortunewell) there is the Royal Manor Theater, which is located in the premises of a Methodist chapel built in 1869. Cute and urban Easton Square with a small clock tower.
Castles of Portland
Portland, like a dignified and respectable British city, has its own castle. To tell the truth, it does not look quite like a castle - rather, it is a coastal fort. The castle was built in the middle of the 16th century and was intended to protect the coast in case of an attack by the French or the Spanish. At the end of the 16th century, the Spanish armada was ready to raid the English possessions and the fort in Portland was armed to the teeth. True, everything went well with the Spaniards, but during the civil war, the castle was besieged and defended alternately by the soldiers of the king and Cromwell, and until the end of the war it remained one of only three that the royalists did not surrender to the enemy. After the return of the sovereign (that is, the coming to power of a new one), the inhabitants of the city received a special grant from him for their loyalty. The castle now offers guided tours of the Tudor era, and visitors can look into the kitchen and view the gun platform. There is also a tea room and a "captain's house".
Another castle near Portland is Rufus Castle, also known as Bow and Arrow Castle. It is located above Church Opp Bay and is included in the list of architectural and historical monuments of the first category. The castle dates from about the 15th century, and some parts of it, still made of the same Portland stone, were built as early as the 12th century. The castle was built directly on the rock and much of the original structure has crumbled under the influence of erosion, wind and time. Today, the castle can be viewed from the outside, but you shouldn't expect too much from it. Next to it is also the dilapidated church of St. Andrew, very old and shrouded in romantic legends. The fact is that many old graves in the church cemetery depict a skull with bones, from which we can conclude that the cemetery was used as intended by pirates.
Serious historians claim that pirates did not decorate the funeral so elegantly: the sea served as their grave. And skulls and bones were just a common symbol of death in those days.
Urban symbols and natural beauty
An iconic object and in some ways a symbol of Portland is the lighthouse on Portland Cape. In fact, there are as many as three of them on the cape. This place has become a graveyard for many ships: the waters here have always been dangerous for navigation, especially in fog. Of greatest interest is the Old Lower Lighthouse, where the ornithology center is now located. In the summer season, the former warden can conduct a sightseeing tour for you.
Taking the first left off the roundabout at the Portland Heights Hotel, at the top of the hill, you'll be treated to sweeping views of Portland Harbor and Chesil Beach. It is an amazing 25 km stretch of coastal sand between West Bay and Portland. And behind it is the Fleet tidal lagoon, where there are many fish - both of these objects are protected by international agreements designed to preserve their unique geology and wildlife. Then, following the coastal road between Southwell and Weston, take time to slow down at Cheyne Wears and enjoy the silence of the tidal waves and the boats mooring.
Church Opp Bay has a special charm. This is a small, secluded beach on the sheltered eastern side of the island, close to the village of Wakeham. Some specific features distinguish it from other beaches of the island. First of all, there aren't many beaches in Portland, and this one is also sandy. Secondly, it is believed that the very first landing of Viking seafarers in Britain took place here.
A big old rusty hand winch has been lying around on Church Oup beach for decades. It is not known why, but it was not removed from there, and the winch appears as a central object in many picturesque photos of the bay.
Quarry and museum
The old quarry is also interesting. It was here that the same famous Portland limestone was mined. The quarry has not been working in its former capacity for three quarters of a century, but today artists and sculptors breathe new life into it. Authors from all over the world have created a kind of open-air park here, where you can see about fifty statues, some of which are really impressive. For example, a full-length figure of a man jumping from a cliff into a fiery furnace. The park even has its own Philosopher's Stone.
A small museum opened in 1930 also operates in Portland. These are just two country houses made of stone with thatched roofs, which were built in the early 17th century and cost over Church Bay OUP. The museum exhibits are devoted to four main themes: the people of Portland, its glorious maritime past and present, the geology and quarrying of the local area, and Portland as part of the unique heritage of the Jurassic Coast. Among the objects that can be seen here are photographs, ancient navigation tools, ammonites with inflated waists and souvenirs from the Olympic Games, which were held here in 2012. In addition, the museum has a small exhibition of documentary evidence related to the preparation of the Allied landing operation. in Normandy in 1944, on "D-Day". Portland Harbor was one of the hubs.
